Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary with the launch of the new GFJ watch
An extraordinary limited edition with a modernized version of the legendary 135 movement
Zenith has long kept us guessing about what its 160th anniversary launch would be. But if you know anything about Zenith, social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in chronometer competitions. With the launch of the Zenith GFJ, the watchmaker from Le Locle has given its legendary 135 movement a new lease of life. Zenith has created a modernized version of the most awarded movement from the golden age of chronometer competitions. It powers the GFJ, which proudly bears the initials of Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot and is styled in a unique style.
Before diving into the details of the new Zenith GFJ, it’s best to take a look back in time. Many of us associate Zenith’s history with the development of the outstanding El Primero movement. But true fans also know that the brand has a long tradition of creating the most precise and reliable timepieces ever made. This was a quest defined by founder Georges Favre-Jacot. More simply, though, he said he wanted to create the "perfect watch". The Zenith name reflects this quest, as it refers to the highest point in the sky. This new Zenith GFJ Limited Edition combines a nod to the founder's name and look with a movement that pays homage to the brand's most awarded movement during the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions.
Story of the Zenith GFJ Most people know that in the 19th and 20th centuries, observatory trials were a true testimony to chronometric precision. Among other things, they brought great prestige to brands. Renowned observatories witnessed the incredible precision achieved by the professional watchmakers of different brands and associated it with their names. Zenith participated in these trials as early as 1897. Over time, the brand's movements have won a total of 2,333 chronometric awards, a record high.
The only movement that has become a legend for having won a total of 235 observatory awards is the Zenith 135-O. This is a record in the history of watchmaking. Ephrem Jobin designed this movement at the request of Charles Ziegler, Zenith's technical director in the late 1940s. This observatory movement was developed specifically for participating in observatory competitions at the Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington or Besançon observatories.
The special Zenith 135-O movement The name "135" comes from the size of the movement. It combines 13 lignes (or 30 mm in diameter, the maximum size allowed for the watch category in the Neuchâtel Observatory trials) with a thickness of 5 mm. Zenith produced two versions of this movement between 1949 and 1962. The first was the regular 135 for commercial use, while the other was the 135-O specifically for observatory chronometry trials.
Renowned Zenith chronometers Charles Fleck and René Gygax were responsible for regulating the movement. From 1950 to 1954, the movement won a record five consecutive first prizes in the watch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory. In 2022, Zenith resurrected the legendary 135-O movement in a remarkable collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, in partnership with Bacs & Russo. Voutilainen restored and decorated 10 vintage movements dating back to the glorious streak of 1950-1954. This ultra-exclusive limited series was well received by fans and the press alike. Subsequently, a unique piece created especially for Susan G. Komen sold for more than €300,000 later that year.
New Caliber 135 Powers the Zenith GFJ To celebrate Zenith’s 160th anniversary, the brand decided to resurrect the historic Caliber 135 once again. However, this time Zenith has created a new version of it. It uses the same construction, dimensions and overall appearance as the original, but modern technology and materials have been used where possible. For example, the power reserve has been increased from 40 hours in the vintage version to a more modern 72 hours. In addition, the new gear train features an optimized tooth profile to improve the efficiency of the movement. In addition, the movement features an offset center wheel to make room for an oversized balance wheel, which improves precision and stability.
Modern improvements combined with unique decorations The new Caliber 135 beats at a frequency of 19,800vph, has an adjusting screw on the balance wheel, and is equipped with a Breguet hairspring. The iconic double arrow-shaped regulator is retained for precise adjustment. However, another modern improvement is the addition of a stop-seconds mechanism, which allows the wearer to set the time with precision. Finally, the balance staff is now protected by a spring jewel setting. The movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, and Zenith regulates it to within ±2 seconds per day.
I was immediately excited when I saw the finishing on the movement. The bridges feature a “brick” guilloché pattern that looks stunning. It gives the movement a completely different aesthetic than what we usually see. This brick pattern is inspired by the red and white bricks of the Zenith watch factory, forming the letters GFJ, referring to the initials of the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Contrasting with the bridge finish is the circular satin finish on the barrel cover and the black polished finish on the crown wheel. Finally, the large gemstones add a touch of color to the captivating overall aesthetic.
Zenith GFJ subtly links to the past with a brick pattern The special brick pattern also reappears on the dial, but let’s take a look at some of the specs and details first. The Zenith GFJ has an elegant 39.15mm platinum case with a thickness of 10.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 45.15mm. This case features a stepped bezel and a complex combination of brushed and polished finishes. Its gracefully curved and stepped lugs give it character, and the initials GFJ are proudly engraved on the crown.
Inside the case is a beautiful blue dial made up of three parts. Its outer ring is fitted with white gold hour and minute markers with the same brick guilloché pattern as the movement. Note that the minute track is made up of 40 hand-set white gold beads. I love this detail. Next, the central section of the dial is in lapis lazuli. It has the brand and model names printed in white, and the Zenith star inlaid in white gold.
Finally, the large subdial for the small seconds at 6 o'clock is made of blue mother-of-pearl. The baton-shaped central hour and minute hands, as well as the small seconds hand, are all made of white gold. Due to the use of natural materials, each dial will be unique.
Final Thoughts on the New Zenith GFJ The Zenith GFJ comes with three straps. The first is dark blue alligator leather, the second is black calfskin. Finally, buyers will receive a blue saffiano calfskin strap. All three straps come with a platinum pin buckle engraved with the GFJ initials. As a nice detail, the brick motif is also present here again, reminding you how special this watch is. Zenith mentions that a seven-row platinum bracelet will also be available (available upon request) with a brick motif embossed on the center links. While no images of the bracelet are shown in the press kit, I can only imagine how amazing it would make this watch look.
The case back features a unique LE number engraved on it. While this unique number is a good reminder of the special status of this watch, the other unique details speak for themselves. Indeed, the new Zenith GFJ is a standout watch, both in terms of appearance and technology, and a great way to celebrate the brand’s 160th anniversary.
Reintroducing the legendary Caliber 135 in a modern form is a brilliant move. It highlights a part of Zenith’s history that many often overlook. While the brand’s El Primero legend is an easy conversation starter, its Caliber 135 is just as impressive. GFJ shows that there’s more to love about Zenith. More specifically, the pursuit of precision chronometry is ingrained in the brand’s DNA. Reintroducing the legendary Caliber 135 in a modern form is a brilliant move. It highlights a part of Zenith’s history that many often overlook. While the brand’s El Primero legend is an easy conversation starter, its Caliber 135 is just as impressive. GFJ shows that there’s more to love about Zenith. More specifically, the pursuit of precision chronometry is ingrained in the brand’s DNA.
Brand Zenith Model GF Securities Reference 40.1865.0135/51.C200 Dial Blue, three-part structure, outer ring decorated with brick guilloché, white gold hour and minute markers, lapis lazuli center, small second hand in mother-of-pearl Case Material 950 Platinum Case Dimensions 39.15 mm (diameter) × 45.75 mm (lug-to-lug) × 10.5 mm (thickness) Crystal Sapphire Back Platinum and sapphire crystal with four screws Movement Zenith 135: manual winding with stop seconds, 19,800 vibrations/hour, 72-hour power reserve, COSC-certified chronometer, ±2 seconds per day adjustment Water Resistance 50 meters Strap Dark blue alligator with platinum pin buckle; comes with black calfskin and blue saffiano Calfskin strap Functions Time (hours, minutes, small seconds)
DRMV Landesverband Baden Württemberg
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02.04.2025 09:03 (zuletzt bearbeitet: 02.04.2025 09:04)
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